From the French side we climb the Gouter Route (French grade PD-), which is the most frequented ascent route with little technical difficulty in good conditions, but exposed snow crests in the upper section. Teams rope up from the Cabane des Tete Rousse and wear helmets up to the Cabane des Gouter. En-route we cross a couloir reknowned for stone falls. This is the most dangerous part of the climb. At the Cabane des Gouter we leave all non-essential equipment and continue to the summit.
This climb represents an excellent mountaineering objective in magnificent surroundings. The route is physically challenging and requires a good degree of fitness and stamina. The mountaineering interest is maintained throughout with steep snow slopes, exciting ridges and gaping bergschrunds. A good level of proficiency is required, which is developed as part of our preparation for the ascent.
Saturday 30 July 2005.
Arrive at hotel in Chamonix and relax. Breifing by Course Director at 7.00pm then dinner.
Sunday 31 July 2005.
Catch train from Chamonix to St Gervais-Le Fayet and from there catch the Tramway du Mont-Blanc to take us to the end of the line at Nid D'Aigle (2372m). From here a short walk to the Cabane des Tete Rousse (3210m) where we spend the night.
Monday 1 August 2005.
Get up at 1.20am and after breakfast at 2.00am we climb to the Cabane des Gouter (3817m) arriving at 4.30am. En route we cross the infamouse couloir where stone and rock falls present a constant hazard. It's dangerous enough crossing in the daylight when at least you stand a chance of seeing the stones and rocks coming down but we cross in the dark which adds to the danger as you can only hear but not see the stones and rocks as they speed downwards along the couloir.
We leave the Cabane des Gouter (3817m) at 5.30am and shortly after, at 6.30am, my climbing partner has to abandon his attempt and is taken back to the Cabane by the guide. I am left anchored to the side of the glacier for half an hour and then my guide and I resume the climb at 7.00am. We summit Mont Blanc (4807m) at 11.00am in perfect weather and spend 15 minutes here taking in the magnificant views.
We begin our descent at 11.15am and arrive at the Cabane des Gouter (3817m) at 1.30pm. We will spend the night here before continuing our decent. We rest and dine at 6.00pm and then to bed. I stay in the Goutier annexe, a dormitory the houses 40 people. In total the Cabane can accommodate about 120 people but tonight it begins to snow and those camping seek the shelter of the Cabane as well. With people sleeping in the entrance halls, dining room floor, benches and tables there are about 140 in the Cabane this night.
Tuesday 2 August 2005.
We get up at 5.00am and countinue our descent, leaving the Cabane des Gouter (3817m) at 5.30am. It has been snowing all night and our steep descent to the Cabane des Tete Rousse (3210m) is over snow covered rock. We arrive safely at the Nid D'Aigle station (2372m) at 10.00am in time for the 10.25am train. We take the train to the first stop down at Bellevue (1794m) then transfer to the Telepherique down to Les Houches and from there we go by car back to our hotel in Chamonix. The rest of the day and night are spent celebrating our successful summit, although the news of a death on the mountain in an avalanche a few days before our summit serves to remind us of the ever present dangers of our venture.
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