The rugged Atlas Mountains, situated close to Marrakech, run east to west for some 1900 kilometres, reaching a spectacular 4165m at the summit of Jebel Toubkal. Few roads venture across the massive Atlas barrier, which falls away abruptly beyond the mountains to the Sahara desert. Tiny villages dot the high mountain valleys or cling precariously to the rocky flanks, inhabited by the hardy and hospitable Berber people.
Hiking from Aremd, we first acclimatise with a series of short exploratory treks. We overnight in Berber village houses, gites or mountain huts, and occasionally sleep out under the stars. The average altitude of the trek is 2500m reaching a maximum of 4165m (13,667ft) with a successful ascent to the summit of Mt. Toubkal, North Africa's highest point. This is a non-technical but fairly strenuous ascent, involving some scrambling over steep slopes.
Biohazards encountered include scorpions and snakes. Also gorse bushes and spinny alysum plants are included in this category as one of our group found that these do not provide a soft landing when you slip!
This trip is arranged by www.explore.co.uk
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See photographs of this trek
See photographs of this climb
Monday 23 June 2003
A hot, clear and sunny day with no breeze our trekking party (Alex, our tour leader and Alan, Brenda, Carlos, Jo, Mark, Shaun, Ralph, Terri and myself) set off for the High Atlas mountains with a drive south of 75km from Marrakech (460m altitude) to the small hamlet of Imli (1750m altitude).
Here we meet our guide, Mohammed and then we walk for about an hour along a mule track, passing the Kasbah at Imlil, to the Berber village of Aremd (1950m altitude) where we are to spend the night in a local gite d'etape. Here we meet our chef, also called Mohammed and have lunch.
In the afternoon we rest and then go for a two-hour walk through the village and beyond to take in the views.
Before dinner our tour leader, Alex, takes us for an exercise session to stretch our muscles. Dinner is at 19.30hrs and we have a soup starter then beef, chips, peas and courgettes for main course and melon for desert. Bed at 21.00 hrs. I sleep on roof terrace under the stars.
Tuesday 24 June 2003
Another hot, clear, sunny and breezeless day. We are up at 07.00hrs, have breakfast at 07.30hrs and are off at 08.00hrs to begin our exploration of the High Atlas range with a rewarding first day's trek over Tizi n'Tamertert (2274m altitude) into the Imenane Valley and onto Ouanskera (2154m altitude) (approx 4 hours walking).
Our Muleteers (Omar, Hassan and others) follow on with our main baggage and soon pass us. We arrive at the gite at 13.00hrs and after lunch have a rest.
I have a short walk in the surrounding hills and meet Brook, an English teacher from Salt Lake City, Utah. We chat as we walk back to the village.
At 16.00hrs we have short (2 hour) walk and then I have a shower before Alex leads us through the daily streching exercises. Dinner is at 19.20hrs and we go to bed at 21.00hrs.
Wednesday 25 June 2003
Still hot and sunny we have a demanding day. We arise at 05.00hrs and are off on trek by 06.00hrs passing through Tacheddirt and then a steep ascent to Tizi'Tacheddirt (3200m altitude). We stop here for snacks and mint tea before descending to the remote village of Iabessene (2600m altitude) (7 hours walking) arriving at the gite at 14.00hrs for lunch.
We rest in the afternoon the stretches at 18.00hrs, dinner at 19.00hrs and bed at 21.00hrs. I sleep on roof under the stars again.
Thursday 26 June 2003
Another long day (7 hrs plus walking) ahead and still very hot and sunny. We are up at 05.00hrs and off by 06.00hrs. We summit the first Tizi'Mzlee (col) in under an hour and then head off towards Agounss and Tizi'Ouatter at 3600m altitude.
We summit by 11.30hrs and I met Brook again travelling in the opposite direction to us. I introduce him to our group and we chat over coke and cheese and bread. (Our Muleteers leave food and drink drops for us as they pass along the route ahead).
We descend through the alpine valleys to the ski resort of Oukaimeden (2600m altitude) where we will stay for 2 nights. This is paradise for our mules with much superb grazing. They are always reluctant to leave here! We arrive at the Club Alpine Francais (CAF) refuge at 14.00 hrs and have lunch then shower, treat blisters and have a rest. Stretching exercises are at 18.30hrs, dinner at 19.30hrs and bed around 21.00hrs.
Friday 27 June 2003
Still very hot and sunny with little breeze we are up at 07.00hrs and out at 08.00hrs for a walk to the summit of Jebel Oukaimeden (3262m, approx 4 hours walking round trip). We summit around 10.00hrs to see the panoramic views of our previous few days route and the summit of Jebel Toubkal, our destination in a few days time. We start our descent at 11.00hrs and arrive back at the refuge by 13.00hrs for lunch.
The afternoon is spent relaxing and some of the group go to the nearby hotel for a swim in the pool.
We have tea at 17.00hrs and then walk to the ridge behind the refuge to see the sunset. On the way to the ridge Mohammed, our mountain guide, points out some petroglyphs (rock carvings) that date back to 2000 BC.
We have dinner at 20.00hrs (Chips and excellent roast beef. The cow was freshly slaughtered that morning) and a few drinks in the bar afterwards. We go to bed about 22.00hrs.
Saturday 28 June 2003
A few clouds today, but they don't last long and it's mainly hot and sunny again. We are up at 07.00hrs and leave by 08.00hrs for a beautiful walk to Amskere via Tizi Oukaimeden and pass an Agadir, a fortified granary.
The trek is mainly downhill, through ochre valleys dotted with juniper trees (5-6 hours walking). We stop at a village house for mint tea and have a long lunch at 12.00hrs. We arrive at the gite in Amskere at 16.00hrs and have tea then rest. Stretches at 18.00hrs, dinner at 19.00hrs and bed at 21.00hrs.
Sunday 29 June 2003
Sunny and hot. This is to be our longest walking day. We are up at 05.00hrs and off by 06.00hrs. We trek to Tizi Oussem via Tizi Aguersioual (2100m altitude) and down to Aguersioual, then over Tizi Oudite (2200m altitude), a total of 8 hours walking.
We stop for a two-hour lunch at 12.00hrs and arrive at the gite at 16.30hrs. I have a shower and we rest. Stretching exercises are at 18.30hrs and dinner at 19.30hrs. We are in bed by 21.00hrs.
Monday 30 June 2003
Again sunny and hot. We set off at 07.30hrs and trek back to Aremd via Tizi Mzik (2500m altitude), a total of 5 hours walking.
We arrive at Aremd at 13.00hrs and after lunch stroll down to Imlil to do some shopping. We stroll back to the gite and have tea at 17.00hrs, exercises at 18.30hrs, dinner at 19.45hrs and bed at 21.30hrs.
Tuesday 1 July 2003
Still sunny and hot we leave Aremd (1950m) at 07.30hrs and walk along a pilgrimage track up the Mizane Valley to Sidi Chamarouch (a local shrine) and then on to the CAF refuge at Neltner (3207m) arriving at 12.30hrs (4 hours walking).
Because of the limited mule parking here some of our mules return to Aremd. We will stay at Nelter for two nights and we all share one dormatory. Note: earplugs should be packed in case anyone snores ... you know who you are!).
We have lunch then rest and aclimatise. I went scrambling and brought back a bag of snow for a snow ball session! At 17.00hrs we have tea then stretches at 18.00hrs, dinner at 19.00 hrs and bed at 21.00hrs.
Wednesday 2 July 2003
Another hot and sunny day with little breeze, we make an early start at 06.00hrs for the exciting ascent of Jebel Toubkal (4165m), North Africa's highest peak. This is a fairly strenuous, though non-technical ascent, involving some scrambling over boulder fields and steep scree slopes.
We reach the summit by 09.20hrs. The views from the high ridge are quite superb. Once we have gained the summit of Jebel Toubkal we return by the same path to our base at Neltner. We stay at the top until 10.15hrs then descend. At first the group stays together, then Carlos and I start scree running (don't do this without practise) and get back to the refuge by 11.45hrs, an hour ahead of the rest of the group.
We have lunch at 13.00hrs and a rest in the afternoon. I go climbing waterfalls and canyoning in the gorge above the refuge and return for tea at 17.00hrs. We have streching exercises at 18.00hrs and dinner at 19.00hrs. We go to bed at 20.30hrs.
Thursday 3 July 2003
In the morning Carlos, Jo, Shaun and I take on Jebel Timesguida Ouanoukrim (4089m altitude), a slightly more technical ascent and much less busy a route. A perfect day - hot and sunny but with just the right amount of breeze to keep us cool. We leave at 06.00hrs and are on the summit by 09.30hours. On our descent we have brilliant views across the High Atlas to Toubkal and the Anti-Atlas mountains.
We return to Nelter for lunch at 12.00hrs then descend to Aremd, passing the others on the way and arriving back at the gite at 15.00hrs.
We have tea at 17.00hrs, stretches at 18.00hrs and dinner at 19.30hrs. Then we present Mohammed our mountain guide, Mohammed our chef, and the muleteers with tokens of appreciation for their help during the trek. We go to bed at 21.30hrs.
Friday 4 July 2003
Another perfect day, we walk down to Imlil (30mins) at 08.00hrs and then drive back to Marrakech, arriving back at the Hotel Ali by mid-morning.
High Atlas trek profile
High Atlas trek map
General notes about trekking in Morroco (extracted from Explore Worldwide's dossier ref HA)
This trip to the High Atlas features a great deal of mountain walking. For this reason you should prepare for this trip both mentally and physically.
GRADING & FITNESS FOR HIGH ATLAS TREK To enjoy any trek such as the exciting High Atlas Trek it is essential to be in shape before you arrive. It is not wise to regard a trek as a means of getting into shape or losing excess weight. Start a programme of conditioning well before departure and be aware that short walks on the flat do little to prepare you for the gradients involved on this trek. Running, hill walking and other more active sports are suitable.
Walking Grades and Fitness: Grading is a somewhat difficult topic as much depends on the individuals own perception of his or her abilities. The following is intended as a general guide to walking grades. This is rated Grade B/C.
Grade B walks (Moderate): usually involve some longer walks (4-6 hours/day) at low altitudes (below 3000m). Some previous hill walking experience is beneficial but these walks should be within the capabilities of those who lead a normal active life. Grade B walking tours may contain some optional strenuous days, and in order to get the best out of the trip you should tone up your fitness before you join.
Grade C walks (strenuous): for the more serious hill walker and a higher level of physical fitness is required. Walking days are normally 6-8 hours and may involve up to 900m or more of ascent and descent. You should be prepared for several consecutive days walking, often at higher altitudes, so stamina is important.
ALTITUDE Note on Altitude: In the High Atlas our average altitude is around 2438m: and the ascent from Neltner Hut (3206m) at the base of Jebel Toubkal to the mountain's summit is over 916m and therefore strenuous. Your leader will ensure that during your stay in the mountains you acclimatise enough before an ascent of Jebel Toubkal. At altitude you will find yourself moving slower than usual, but this gives an excellent opportunity to admire the spectacular views. Severe Altitude Sickness is very rare below 4500m.
LUGGAGE Luggage: Your kitbag/barrel bag is carried by mules on trek. You may also need a stuff-sack to store surplus belongings while on trek and a daysac. Maximum weight on trek 15kg/33 lbs. Pack mules are used to carry equipment, food and most personal gear. Pack heavy/dense items into your kitbag. You can store surplus baggage not required on the trek at the hotel in Marrakesh.
LIFE ON A HIGH ATLAS TREK Mules carry our food, equipment and personal gear. One mule is usually needed for every 2-3 trekkers. All you need carry is your daysac, camera, waterbottle, sweater, etc. On trek, the tracks we follow vary from mule tracks, normally in good condition with a steady gradient and wide enough to walk two abreast to mountain paths or dust roads.
Mountain paths are usually a little rougher and sometimes contain stretches of scree. Walking varies from 4 to 9 hours per day, with plenty of breaks and a long lunch stop. The trek leader of course has ultimate say as regards the staging of the itinerary, but the interests of the group are taken into account along with the weather and local conditions.
A walk in the High Atlas will bring you into close contact with the Berbers, and you are encouraged to mix with these friendly people - you will find your trip greatly enhanced by close contact with village life which has changed little over the centuries and is almost medieval in many areas.
Whenever possible, we try to have a completely free day in one of the Berber villages. Conditions in these villages are basic. Leave behind your western standards and you 'll enjoy these fascinating communities to their fullest extent. The daily schedule is usually as follows: up fairly early, pack your gear and have a light breakfast. Start on the trail and walk until lunch stop. In the afternoon, we walk on to a village or mountain hut where we plan to pass the night, and dinner is usually served around 7.00 p.m. The choice of food depends on the season: eggs, bread, fruit, vegetables and most other foodstuffs are purchased locally, and the group usually eat in traditional Berber style (i.e.tajine stews, cous-cous, etc.) though help with preparing food speeds things along.
Accommodation in the remote mountain villages sometimes involves spending the night sleeping on the rooftops of traditional houses. There are, however, stone-built mountain huts or refuges at Neltner and Oukaimeden which we use. These may be equipped with mattresses, water, toilet and cooking facilities, and attended by a local guardian. On other occasions, depending on conditions, our route takes us away from villages and we may bivouac underneath the beautiful starlit African sky.
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