The trail traverses the island diagonally crossing the high granite barrier of mountains that form the natural boundary between the west and east of Corsica. There is fantastic scenery and an insight into the authentic and traditional working mountain community. We meet the last of the shepherds that still follow the age-old lifestyle of the transhumance, they pass the summer months with their flocks on the high fresh airy pastures and the winters down by the coast.

We stay in a variety of different accommodations, a mix of camps, refuges, gites, or shepherds cabins, situated in places of exceptional beauty. Our evening meals are prepared for us and it is a pleasure to sit down at the end of a days walking and sample some of the local specialties with a great variety of cheeses and some good red wines.

Most days we walk carrying just a small day sack and this is a bonus since without having to carry a heavy load we can really get the most out of the walk. On some days we briefly leave the GR20 to walk to our night stops. Due to their location we are able to access our main luggage throughout the trek on most nights. When we can't get to our main luggage in the evening we carry minimum personal belongings (i.e. sleeping bag) in our packs during the day.

This trip is arranged by Walks Worldwide

We highly recommend Walks Worldwide

The GR20 is for walkers who have a good fitness level, it does not require any climbing techniques or special skills and you just need to be able to walk with confidence over a variety of rugged terrain. A little scrambling experience can be an advantage and there are some sections where a head for heights makes the day more pleasurable. There are sections where metal wire fixed to the rock is used as a handrail.

The trail winds through some incredible mountain terrain, over high ridges, down deep chasms and bare granite slopes. There are many steep ascents and descents with alpine terrain. It's an exceptional long distance walk, reputed as the best and most challenging in Europe. At the end of the trek we return to the coastal town of Calvi where we enjoy the street cafés, the shops, restaurants and most of all the comfort of a hotel bed.

About Corsica

Geography. Corsica (Corse) is a department of France and is a mountainous island in the Mediterranean some fifty miles from mainland Europe. It is sparsely populated, with a few isolated settlements in the valleys and summer 'bergeries' in the mountains. Its coastal scenery is some of the best in Europe.

Climate. The summer temperatures at sea level average 20-35C but can frequently reach 40C. Generally temperature decreases by 1C for every 100 metres of ascent, particularly when the warm Corsican sun goes down, leading to cold, clear nights. Rainfall in the summer is rare but spectacular thunderstorms are not uncommon. Snowfall is heavy in the winter with snow often persisting in the mountains until late spring.

Languages. French, Corsican (strong similarities to Italian).

The walking. The GR20 is generally considered to be the most difficult of all the GR routes but as we aren't carrying heavy rucksacks all the time some of the strain is taken off. The trail is well marked throughout with red and white flashes on rocks, boulders and trees. We walk for between six and eight hours each day, with possible 'optional' extensions to take in mountain peaks. Generally each day the route ascends and descends high mountain passes. The route is wholly mountainous and for nearly all it's length is above 1,000 metres.

Trekking conditions. The terrain can be difficult with stretches of 'via ferrata', exposure and some steep ascents and descents of around 1000 to 1700 metres a day. We will share with camp 'chores' such as cooking, washing up and opening the wine bottles!

Typical Itinerary

Sunday 27 July 2008: Calvi to Bavella

We fly into Calvi from the UK to meet with the rest of the group. From here we transfer by private minibus to the Col de Bavella, the journey takes about five hours from Calvi. We stop for lunch and on arrival at the gite there's time to settle in before we enjoy our evening meal. After dinner I give the group a briefing on the trip.

Night at Bavella gite, evening meal served in the restaurant.
Access to main luggage.

Monday 28 July 2008: Bavella to Asinau

This morning we walk along the Alpine Variant to pass through the very heart of the massif of Bavella. There's no access tonight to our main luggage so we need to carry minimal personal gear for one night, including a sleeping bag, to and from Asinau.

The tall needles of granite tower above as we pass by different pinnacles, like the Acellu, Ariettu, Vacca and the Pargulu. Our trail today is sometimes steep and in places assisted by hand chains. The area of Bavella is reputed for its possession of a rare beauty, a chaotic jumble of coloured granite, well known for rock climbing. We then plunge into an unusual mountain decor and it is hard to imagine that the sea is not far away. Our trail crosses over a ridge at 1,662 metres before the descent that leads down into Asinau valley.

Nights camping, or in Asinau refuge. (We bivvy out under the stars) Hot evening meal served in the refuge.
4h00 - 4h30 effective walking, +815m altitude, -495m, 6km.
No access to main luggage.

Tuesday 29 July 2008: Asinau to the Plateau of Cuscionu

Today's terrain is in complete contrast to yesterdays but is nevertheless steep and challenging. Our trail leads up to the dramatic summit of Monte Alcudina (2,134 m). It's a rocky climb but once on the summit the view is panoramic and we can see our route stretching ahead. On a clear day it is possible to see the island's outline in the sea, the east and the west coastline. Our trail heads down towards the plateau of Cuscionu situated at 1,550 m altitude, where we discover a large plateau, an area of 50 km², dotted with shepherd's cabins that were once the homes of many shepherd families in times past. Towards the end of the day we leave the GR20 trail and make our way to the edge of the plateau to our camp.

Night's camping, in cabin, or in gite on the plateau of Cuscionu. Evening meal served in Bassetta Gite.
6h00 effective walking, +730m altitude, -930m, 12km.
Access to main luggage.

Wednesday 30 July 2008: Coscionu to Cozzano

We leave the plateau passing through a forest of dwarf oak trees that are hundreds of years old. Sculpted by the time and weather to such a point to give a tortured decor of knotted, gnarled, low spiral branches, the forest has a mystic air. We arrive at the Col de l'Agnone from where the trail climbs upwards to open onto a high ridge. Our path stays up high on the ridge at around 2,000 metres altitude, alternating to one side and the other, it's astounding that there is a path at all that passes here. The views are superb, constantly changing from the east to the west as we seesaw back and forth on the ridge. The refuge of Usciolu marks the end of our ridge walk, time for a welcome break, a drink in the sun on the terrace and a chance to meet other walkers. From here we start our descent to Cozzano.

Night in Cozzano gite, or camping. Evening meal served in the gite restaurant.
6h30 effective walking, +530m altitude, -1,060m, 12km.
Access to main luggage.

Thursday 31 July 2008: Cozzano to the Col de Verde

Again today's walk offers some great views down across the flat eastern plains and sea lagoons. We take the Mare Nord path to the Col de Laparo from where the GR follows the ridge. We pass the GR refuge of Prati (1,820 m) where it is worth stopping to enjoy the airy rooftop views of the island and the lush, spongy fresh ground. It is sometimes possible to see the islands of Elba and Monte Cristo. The descent winds rapidly down in and out of the forest to our destination at the Col de Verde (1,289 m).

Night in Col de Verde gite, or camping, evening meal served in a small auberge at the col.
7h30 effective walking, +1,230m altitude, -690m, 16km.
Access to main luggage.

Friday 1 August 2008: Col de Verde to Capanelle

The trail undulates today in and out of a forest of pine trees. They are majestic, tall, straight lariccio pines with a silvery smooth bark that are very much a symbol of the island. We take an alternative route to the summit of Monte Renosu for spectacular views of our route behind and over the next few days. The descent from the summit passes a large lake where we swim and relax below Monte Renosu. Then we continue on to the small shepherd's hamlet of Traghjette. There is just one shepherd that lives here now following the age-old lifestyle of the transhumance and producing his cheese. A last short walk sees us to our night stop at Capanelle.

Night in Capanelle gite or camping. Evening meal served in gite restaurant.
5h00 effective walking, +635m, 335m, 13km. (7h00 including summit route plus a further 300m of ascent and descent.)
Access to main luggage.

Saturday 2 August 2008: Capanelle to Vizzavona

This is the last stage of the GR20 Southern section, it is a leisurely day and it is overall a down hill day. We leave Capanelle (1,568 m) taking a path that is more or less on the level and along easy terrain. We pass through some idyllic spots, remote welcoming stone cabins and a luxuriant vegetation. Then we continue to Bocca Palmente 1,640 m, from where on a clear day the views are exceptional, the looming massifs of the Monte d'Oro and the Rotondu tower above. We drop down into a thick forest of pine and beech trees for a relaxing descent, the trail loops back and forth lacing down to Vizzavona (920 m) the midway point for the GR. In the afternoon we walk to and relax in the nearby rock pools and visit the local adrenalin park (rope ladders and zip lines).

Night in Vizzavona gite, evening meal served in restaurant.
5h00 effective walking, +220m, -910m, 15km.
Access to main luggage.

Sunday 3 August 2008: Canaglia to the shepherd's cabin of Grotelle

A short early morning transfer to the hamlet of Canaglia. As we walk up the valley of Manganellu we follow the course of an emerald green torrent with large rock pools and chutes of tumbling water. The lariccio pine trees give way to the fragrant alder bushes as we start to gain altitude. Once at 1,840 m we arrive at the refuge of Petra Piana, we continue up to the 'col de la haute route' with all the major mountains around, the Maniccia, the Monte d'Oro and the Renoso, as well as the imposing Lombarduccio. We leave the GR trail and pass by the two small lakes of Rinosu to make our way down through a wild valley to the shepherd's cabins of Grotelle at 1,370 m. This cabin is run by Théo, who is famed locally for his hearty cooking.

Nights camping, or in shepherds cabin. Evening meal served in Théo's cabin restaurant.
7h30 effective walking, +1490m altitude, -840m, 18km.
Access to main luggage.

Monday 4 August 2008: Grotelle to the plateau of Campotile

There is no access tonight to our main luggage, minimal personal gear, including a sleeping bag needs to be carried to and from the shepherd's cabin Vaccaja. (it can get cold at night in Vaccaja). A magnificent mountain walk, setting off from the cabin of Grotelle, a well trodden route leads up to the Mello lake. The path is assisted at two points by a ladder and a hand chain (no difficulty) where after we arrive at a large apple shaped, glacier lake surrounded by spongy grass. As we press on up higher we get to the abruptly contrasting lake of Capitellu, which at 43 metres deep, is the deepest on the island. Sheer sheets of granite plunge into its depths and there are little traces of vegetation. A discreet trail leads through the rocks up onto a ridge, to lead around a glacial cirque to the high breche of Capitellu (2,225 m). There are magnificent views down onto the lakes below. A steep, rocky descent leads to the refuge of Manganu and the Campotile plateau and we cross the lush green plateau to arrive at the shepherd's cabin Vaccaja (1,621 m). We swim in the nearby torrent and rock pools. Night in tent in the vicinity of the shepherd's cabin Vaccaghja.

Evening meal served at Vaccaja.
6h30 effective walking, +935m altitude, -685m, 11km.
No access to main luggage.

Tuesday 5 August 2008: Campotile Plateau to Castel di Vergio

For the first hour we have a relaxing walk to the green lush turf of the lake de Nino. We take a morning stop to lounge on the banks of the lakes while we refill water bottles at the spring. At 1743 m this glacier lake is in a sheltered, bucolic spot, surrounded by a spongy peat with runnels of water and wells, ideal grazing ground for ponies in the summer. The air is fresh, tinged with the scents and fragrance of the high mountains. We make an ascent of Capu a u Tozzu (2,007m), which is a short 20 mins ascent, for great views of the Monte Cinto range including Paglia Orba and Taffunatu. From the lake a classic walk leads over the ridges with views towards the ever-closer blue glint of the beckoning sea. Lastly we lose altitude to join a flat horseshoe shaped trail to Castel di Vergio, the island's small ski station and hotel.

Night and evening meal at Castel di Vergio hotel.
5h30 effective walking +365m altitude, -575m, 12km.
Access to main luggage.

Wednesday 6 August 2008: Castel de Vergio to the refuge of Ciottulu di I Mori

There is no access to main luggage tonight, minimal personal gear, including a sleeping bag needs to be carried to and from Ciottulu, where it can get cold at night. Following the GR20 we walk to Radule, a huddle of stone cabins well camouflaged against the mountain rock. The trail follows the Golu torrent up the valley towards its source. Mid way up the valley we cross the torrent and have a break on the smooth sun baked rocks for a paddle and swim. The trail leaves the foot of the valley to pull up onto the ridge. From here there are clear views of the western coastal villages and the indented outline of the island in the sea. The refuge Ciottulu di I Mori (1,990 m) is today's destination. Arriving early afternoon we pick a bed and enjoy a drink on the terrace that overlooks the whole valley. The refuge is situated between two daunting mountains the Taffunatu and the Paglia Orba. These massifs offer some great walking, the ambience is high and alpine and home to the wild mountain mouflon.

Night and evening meal in refuge of Ciottulu. Evening meal prepared by the refuge guardian.
4h30 walking time, +650m altitude, -50m, 6km. (without optional walk)
No access to main luggage.

Thursday 7 August 2008: Ciottulu, Paglia Orba summit and the Bergeries of Vallone

There is no access to main luggage tonight, minimal personal gear, including a sleeping bag needs to be carried. We make an early morning ascent of the Paglia Orba without any weight in our rucksacks we take water, cameras and warm protection. Leaving at daybreak we head for the summit (2,525 m), there and back the journey takes 3 1/2 hours. This exhilarating climb is overlooked by most walkers on the GR20 and is really a memorable achievement. Once back at the refuge we pick up our gear and head for the Col de Foggiale. From the Col the GR plunges steeply down, a stunning descent through harsh granite rock and giant grand old pines. Once down to an altitude of 1,400 m and near to the torrent Viru, the approach to the cabin of Vallone begins. This log cabin is a real favourite, it is not accessible by road, so a mule carries all the food and drink in, as is often the case on the GR. There is no access to main luggage tonight.

Nights camping at Vallone. Evening meal in the cabin's restaurant.
3h00 effective walking, +50m altitude, -610m, 5km. (not including Paglia Orba summit ascent)
No access to main luggage but the chance to have surplus gear and sleeping bag taken out by mule tomorrow morning.

Friday 8 August 2008: The Circle of Solitude to Asco

Today's walk is certainly the most stimulating section of the GR. The circle of solitude is best enjoyed with minimal weight carried, so we our sleeping bag and any surplus personal gear is be carried out from Vallone by mule and transferred to meet us in Asco. We leave Vallone heading up hill past the first refuge of Tighjettu 1,680 m. Continuing up; the climb is fairly steep crossing slabs of rock and large boulders to the entrance point of the cirque called Bocca Minuta (2,218 m). From here we see walkers entering and leaving the cirque from the opposite niche across the far side. The trail down through this deep chasm is unique, the path drops straight down out of sight into a deep void. There are certain points that are assisted with hand chains to help with balance. The trail descends 200 metres before we climb back up the other side to arrive at the exit niche, the Col Perdu. The geology, the closeness of the rocks and the often billowing mist make this a dramatic and impressive section in Corsica's grand granite barrier. The cirque is the final challenge of our GR20 walk and marks the end of our achievement. As we cross out through the Col Perdu the sun find us again for our 800 metre decent down the mountain side to our destination of Asco. (1,422 m).

Night in refuge at Asco, or camping. Evening meal served in the refuge.
7h30 effective walking, +980m altitude, -995m, 12km.
Access to main luggage.

Saturday 9 August 2008: Asco to Calvi

Morning transfer from Asco to Calvi, taking approximately one hour. After checking into the hotel we have the afternoon free to enjoy Calvi town and beaches. Night in a hotel in Calvi.

Sunday 10 August 2008: Calvi

Our holiday comes to an end after breakfast at the hotel in Calvi. We take a taxi to the nearby airport for the flight back to the UK at lunchtime.