 This adventurous journey takes us by road and track south from Santiago de Chile and the lakes region of southern Chile through to Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego, literally at the world's end, before flying back to Buenos Aires. Chile's Puerto Montt used to be the end of the road but a new road, the Camino Austral, now goes into the fjords, and provides access to some spectacular territory. This is a wild and desolate area populated mainly by rheas, guanacos, armadillos and a rich variety of birds and is the meeting place of the Andes, the lake region and awesome continental ice cap. On route, crossing between Chile and Argentina, we climb, glisade, horse ride, hike, sail, swim and look in wonder at the beautiful scenery. There are glacial lakes and rivers to explore, the awe-inspiring Moreno glacier, the sheer faces of the Torres del Paine, Ushuaia - the city at the end of the planet, and the most vibrant cities in all of Latin America. We have lots of early starts, long days and camping all the way, except in Santiago de Chile and Buenos Aires where we rest, relax, party ... and sleep in beds!
This trip, arranged by www.exodus.co.uk, is delivered by www.smallgroupadventure.com.
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See photographs of this adventure
17 Dec 2005
My journey begins with a short early evening Air France flight from Manchester, UK to Paris, France followed by a quick transfer to join the overnight Air France flight to Santiago de Chile.
18 Dec 2005
Hot, no cloud. I arrive in Santiago de Chile at 10.00am and take a taxi to the Hotel Espania in the centre of the city. After checking-in I explore the city, with an attractive pedestrianised centre and snow-capped Andes in the distance. In the evening I meet the rest of the group for a pre-trip briefing before loading the truck ready for an early start tomorrow. Our leader/driver is Rob Allen from www.smallgroupadventure.com and his crew comprising the ever-smiling Jose Lois Solar and the excellent chef Cesar Henostroza. The other members of the group are Andy, Alan, Catherine, CW, Fiona, Gerhard, Janet, John, Linda, Phil, Karen, Naomi, Richard, Stewart, Tony and myself.
19 Dec 2005
Hot, no cloud. Up at 5.00am and on the road by 6.00am for the long drive south to Pucon, in the beautiful Lake District of Chile. We stop for lunch at the Pontes de Laja and whilst our chef, Cesar, prepares food we walk up to waterfall. We arrive at Pucon at 5.30pm where Jose Lois shows us how to put up our tents and we each get a key to the truck so we can get to our stowed gear when it's locked. After we've pitched our tents we stroll into town for dinner.
20 Dec 2005
Hot, no cloud. Up at 6.00am and into town by 7.30am for the transfer bus to the ski lift of the Villarrica (Volcano) (2840m). After taking the ride to the snow line we walk slowly to the summit of this active volcano for superb views along Andes and into its smouldering cone. Whilst at the top we are treated to a few 'small' eruptions, which blast lava and rock hundreds of metres into the air. Our guides decide it's time to get off the hill and we take the quick way down, which means sliding down the snow using our ice axes for control. We descend 800m to the bottom of the snow line in only a few minutes! Then it's back on the bus and return to town for dinner.
21 Dec 2005
Hot, no cloud. Up at 8.00am and after breakfast into town again for the transfer bus to the stables for horse riding in the Villarrica National Park. Stunning views of the volcanoes, lakes, hills and waterfalls. Return to the stables in the early afternoon for a barbeque of meat and fish - trout, freshly caught that morning. Then back to town and return to camp for a group dinner.
22 Dec 2005
Very hot, 30% cloud. Up at 7.00am and on the road by 8.30am for the long drive to Chiloé Island (Isla Grande de Chiloe). Arrive at Ancud in the evening and make camp. Then into town for dinner at Retro's Pub/Pizzeria, decorated with old rock group posters and on TV live coverage of the crowd at a football match - for some reason the channel was not allowed to show the game live!
23 Dec 2005
Very hot, 50% cloud clearing in afternoon. Up at 6.00am, break camp and after breakfast a short drive across Chiloé Island to the north west coast to the Pumillahue penguin colony. Here we go out on the water in boats to see the penguins. We drive to Quemchi for lunch and then on to Puerto Montt to catch the overnight ferry for the 12 hour cruise through the Golfo de Ancud, between snowy Andes and islands and fjords.
24 Dec 2005
Very hot, 30% cloud. Arrive at Chaitén at 11.00am and leave the ferry. Have lunch and then drive along the Camino Austral, taking in views of Yelcho Lake and Risopatren as we head for Puyuhuapi in the Queulat National Park (Parque National Queulat) arriving at 7.30pm. Camp with superb views of Queulat hanging glacier. Have group dinner at the camp and much drink until later celebrating Xmas eve!
25 Dec 2005
Very hot, 30% cloud. Spend the morning walking in the National Park up to the lookout near the hanging glacier. Then down to the lake where I take out a motorboat and sail to the top of the glacial lake. Anchor here and trek to the top of the glacial moraine for close-up views of the glacier. Sail back and then relax in camp. Early dinner - an indication of an early start tomorrow perhaps!
26 Dec 2005
Hot, 30% cloud. Up at 5.30am and on the road by 6.30 a.m. to continue the long drive down the Camino Austral. More breathtaking views as we pass through Coihaique en route to the shores of Lago General Carrera where we arrive at 6.30 p.m. After making camp we swim and bathe in the lake whilst Cesar prepares dinner. Later make campfire on the beach where some of us sleep under the stars.
27 Dec 2005
Hot, 30% cloud. Wake early for the sunrise then break camp, breakfast and on the road by 7.00 a.m. Midday we cross the border at Chile Chico and enter Argentina with a stark contrast of landscape in the rain-shadow of the Andes. Arrive at Baja Caracoles at 7.30 p.m. Bed by 10.00 p.m. Rain in night.
28 Dec 2005
Warm becoming hot, 90% cloud clearing in p.m. Up at 4.20 a.m. and on the road by 5.00 a.m. Brief stops for breakfast at 8.00 a.m. and lunch at noon as we head to El Calafate, our base for visiting the Moreno glacier, stemming from the world's third largest ice mass - the Patagonian Ice Field. Arrive at EC 2.20 p.m. having completed the Cartereal Austral in just three (long) driving days. Only a hundred or so people do that each a year! We go into town to leave dirty clothes at the laundry and then relax in the bar Casablanca. Dinner at 7.00 p.m. in Rick's Place.
29 Dec 2005
Warm, 90% cloud. Breakfast at 8.00 a.m. then drive to the Moreno glacier and spend the morning on the walkways, watching and listening to this awesome wonder. In the afternoon we take a boat ride to get close up to the glacier and watch some spectacular icefalls.
30 Dec 2005
Hot, clear. Up at 7.00 a.m. and on the road by 8.00 a.m. Cross the border again and back into Chile as we head for the Torres del Paine National Park. Arrive at camp overlooking Lago Pehoe and the Horns of Paine (Cuernos del Paine) at 6.30 p.m.
31 Dec 2005
Hot, 20% cloud. Up at 8.00 a.m. and after breakfast it's a short drive to the start of the trekking path up to the Torres del Paine base. It take 3 hours to trek to the base and we then spend a couple of hours taking in the stunning views. Return to camp for dinner and New Year celebrations.
1 Jan 2006
Hot, clear. Up at 8.00 a.m. and after breakfast a short drive to the start of the path to Lago Grey. Walk along beach and up to viewpoint. Return to camp by midday and in afternoon. I take a walk up a nearby hill for magnificent 360-degree vista of the lakes and mountains.
2 Jan 2006
Cool, cloudy. Up at 7.30 a.m. and on the road by 8.45 a.m. Drive to Puerto Natales for lunch and then on to Puerto Delgada to camp at a truck stop close to Magellan Strait (Primera Angostura). We dine in the truck stop where a huge meal has been prepared for us.
3 Jan 2006
Cool, cloudy, showers becoming warm and clear in p.m. Up at 5.30 a.m. to watch Gauchos drive hundreds of horses close by our camp, then break camp and breakfast. On the road by 8.00 a.m. for a short drive to the ferry to cross the Magellan Strait (Primera Angostura) and then onto Tierra del Fuego, end of the planet! We cross the border back into Argentina, lunch in Rio Grande and then continue on to Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world. We arrive at 6.30 p.m. and make camp at the Ushuaia Rugby Club.
4 Jan 2006
Up at 8.00 a.m. and after breakfast into town for a boat trip along the Beagle Channel. In the afternoon stroll around town and visit Naval Museum. Group meal in town in the evening.
5 Jan 2006
Fly Ushuaia to Buenos Aires. Check-in to the Hotel Bristol, just a stone's throw from the Obelisk on the 9 de Julio Avenue (Avienda 9 de Julio).
6 Jan 2006
Time to relax and explore Buenos Aires. City tour in morning then Tango (dance) show in evening.
7 Jan 2006
Very hot, clear, humid. Further exploration of BA and in the evening head to Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo district, the home of Tango (dance), for dinner and the night atmosphere.
8 Jan 2006
Hot, cloudy, showers, thunder. Final stroll around BA then leave for airport in mid-afternoon for my overnight flight to Paris.
9 Jan 2006
I arrive in Paris and then transfer for short flight back to Manchester. Home mid-afternoon.
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